Highlights from the SS15 London Fashion Week – 12/16 September 2014
With the SS15 London Fashion Week just closed and the glamorous fashion circus moved south to Milan and Paris, I can finally recap ideas and give my personal recount of the latest Fashion week in London.
LFW SS15 has seen 56 catwalk shows and 26 presentations in just five days, with more than 200 designers – with a mix of established names and inspiring up and comers – having exhibited over the LFW period and giving us a preview of the forthcoming trends. In 2012 and 2011 London was voted as the global fashion capital by the Global Language Monitor (GLM), while in 2013 the city of London was voted as Top Fashion Buzzword.
The Global Language Monitor (GLM), founded in 2003 in Silicon Valley by Paul J.J. Payack, analyzes and catalogues the latest trends in word usage and word choices and their impact on the various aspects of culture, with a particular emphasis upon Global English.
Monday is the Big Day at London Fashion Week, as is THE DAY presenting the true étoiles on the catwalk: Burberry Prorsum, Christopher Kane, Tom Ford, Antonio Berardi, Roksanda and Peter Pilotto all show on this key day.
Christopher Kane has been undoubtedly the superstar of the British Fashion Council since his launch collection in 2006: the Scottish designer presented his first catwalk after graduating from the prestigious MA at Saint Martins College under the supervision of the late professor Louise Wilson, who passed away this spring and to whom his SS15 collection is dedicated.
Kane has become one of the icons in town since he established his eponymous label as a major brand – aided by the investment of luxury French group Kering (owned by magnate Francois Pinault) which bought a 51 percent stake last year. Kering group’s umbrella includes luxury houses like Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Brioni, Stella McCartney, Sergio Rossi, Boucheron, Pomellato, Dodo, and Puma among others.
The A-lister show, whose backdrop was the grandeur and cultural empyrean of the Tate Modern Turbine Hall, was studded with stars and celebrities sitting on the front row, such as Vogue’s Mogul Anna Wintour.
As Christopher Kane puts it: “There were dresses that I was making then, things that were not shown, that featured coils, cords and ropes. I decided to revisit them, that simple cord idea sparking other thoughts. There are ‘controlled explosion’ dresses, with explosions of tulle intrinsic to their structure, like they are about to take off.”
Meanwhile Burberry’s creative director Christopher Bailey in his “The Bird and the Bees” Womenswear SS15 show at the Kensington Garden marquee, has temporarily(?) banished high heels from the catwalk, he has revisited the trademark trench and introduced denim jackets complemented with feathers and tulle. The SS15 runway features floral hues, wasp waists and the new must-have accessory, The Bee Bag, boasting in the honeybee palette looks on the catwalk.
In Tom Ford ‘s counter-trend collection nipples came adorned with golden garnishes, see-through trousers left nothing to imagination, – with the exception of some shiny camouflage bell-bottoms – , while the hues were black with some scattered glows of white, green, silver and gold.
Sequins, glitter, transparent panels were the seducing ingredients for his SS15 looks creating an overtly sexy and alluring show.
Last but not least my favourite looks: Antonio Berardi ‘s chic and glamorous red-carpet-y organzas and brocades that seemed to evaporate through the catwalk, leaving a sense of poetic allure and fragile elegance.